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Active ingredient

Alpha-Arbutin

INCIAlpha-Arbutin

Last reviewed by BIOSAR Scientific Team, PharmD, Cosmetic Chemistry, Pharmacy practice on .

What it is

Alpha-arbutin is a glycosylated hydroquinone derivative used in skincare to fade hyperpigmentation, post-acne marks, and uneven tone. It works by reversibly inhibiting tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis, without the cytotoxic risk of free hydroquinone. Pairs well with niacinamide, vitamin C, and tranexamic acid for layered pigment correction.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Safe

Considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Cosmetic-grade alpha-arbutin at concentrations up to 2% is considered acceptable during pregnancy and lactation per Mother to Baby and Trivedi et al. (Int J Womens Dermatol 2017). Topical use shows minimal systemic absorption; the parent compound hydroquinone is avoided in pregnancy, but the glycosylated arbutin form does not behave identically.

Mechanism in detail

What Alpha-Arbutin does

Stable tyrosinase inhibitor. Interrupts the enzymatic step that produces excess melanin. Evens tone gradually without photosensitization.

Evidence

What the research says

  • 76%A beta-arbutin plant extract in women with melasmaA double-blind trial in 102 women tested a cream with a plant extract rich in beta-arbutin, not alpha-arbutin, twice daily for 8 weeks. Skin tone evened in 76% of those with melasma and in 56% of those with sun spots.A clinical study in patients, in a medical setting. It is shown for the science of the ingredient, not as an example of cosmetic use.Read the study →J Cosmet Dermatol 2015 (Morag et al.)