Active ingredient

Azelaic Acid

INCIAzelaic Acid

5%Typical concentration

Last reviewed by BIOSAR Scientific Team, PharmD, Cosmetic Chemistry, Pharmacy practice on April 28, 2026.

What it is

Azelaic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid used in skincare to reduce inflammatory acne, rosacea, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting Cutibacterium acnes growth, suppressing tyrosinase activity, and dampening neutrophil-driven inflammation. Effective at 10% (cosmetic) and 15-20% (prescription). One of the few actives clinicians actively recommend during pregnancy. Mild additive irritation possible when layered with retinoids.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

Safe

Considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Azelaic acid is recommended by Mother to Baby and ACOG as a first-line topical for acne and melasma during pregnancy and lactation. Systemic absorption is under 4% of the applied dose (Bozzo 2011, Can Fam Physician).

Mechanism in detail

What Azelaic Acid does

Dicarboxylic acid that evens tone and calms visible redness. Well tolerated by sensitive skin.

Evidence

What the research says

65%Most patients saw good-to-excellent melasma fadingIn a 24-week double-blind trial, 20% azelaic acid delivered good or excellent results in 65% of patients with melasma, matching prescription 4% hydroquinone. No serious side effects such as ochronosis were seen.Read the study →Int J Dermatol 1991
−58%Inflammatory blemishes dropped 58% in the trialIn a phase III vehicle-controlled study, 15% azelaic acid gel reduced inflammatory rosacea lesions by 58%, significantly outperforming vehicle at 40%. It was rated an efficacious, well-tolerated topical option.Read the study →J Am Acad Dermatol 2003

Layering guidance

Use Azelaic Acid carefully alongside

These ingredients work well in a routine but are best applied at different times of day or on alternating days to limit irritation.

From the BIOSAR catalog

Azelaic Acid

Considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

What Azelaic Acid does

What the research says

Use Azelaic Acid carefully alongside

Products formulated with Azelaic Acid

Soothing Light Cream SPF30