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Active ingredient

Azelaic Acid

INCIAzelaic Acid

Last reviewed by BIOSAR Scientific Team, PharmD, Cosmetic Chemistry, Pharmacy practice on .

What it is

Azelaic acid is a saturated dicarboxylic acid used in skincare to reduce inflammatory acne, rosacea, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting Cutibacterium acnes growth, suppressing tyrosinase activity, and dampening neutrophil-driven inflammation. One of the few actives clinicians actively recommend during pregnancy. Mild additive irritation possible when layered with retinoids.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding
Safe

Considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Azelaic acid is recommended by Mother to Baby and ACOG as a first-line topical for acne and melasma during pregnancy and lactation. Systemic absorption is under 4% of the applied dose (Bozzo 2011, Can Fam Physician).

Mechanism in detail

What Azelaic Acid does

Dicarboxylic acid that evens tone and calms visible redness. Well tolerated by sensitive skin.

Evidence

What the research says

  • 65%Prescription-strength 20% cream in women with melasmaA 24-week double-blind trial in 329 women with melasma: 20% azelaic acid cream, a prescription strength, gave good or excellent results in 65%, with no significant difference from 4% hydroquinone. Both groups used sunscreen.A clinical study in patients, in a medical setting. It is shown for the science of the ingredient, not as an example of cosmetic use.Read the study →Int J Dermatol 1991
  • 58% · 51%15% prescription gel in rosacea: two phase III trialsTwo vehicle-controlled phase III trials in 329 and 335 patients with papulopustular rosacea: 15% azelaic acid gel twice daily cut inflammatory lesions by 58% and 51%, against 40% and 39% with the vehicle gel.A clinical study in patients, in a medical setting. It is shown for the science of the ingredient, not as an example of cosmetic use.Read the study →J Am Acad Dermatol 2003
Layering guidance

Use Azelaic Acid carefully alongside

These ingredients work well in a routine but are best applied at different times of day or on alternating days to limit irritation.

Where it helps

Concerns Azelaic Acid addresses

From the BIOSAR catalog

Products formulated with Azelaic Acid